Sunday, August 30, 2026
Lao Cai -> Ninh Binh via overnight train
We left Sapa on warm sunny day, which got even hotter as we left the mountains heading north towards the Chinese border. Lao Cai sits in a valley at the junction of the Red and Nanxi rivers, where you can cross to Hekou, China.
Did I mention it was hot! The weather had been SO pleasant in Sapa I immediately regretted it, but I managed to suck it up and we walked over to see the border crossing.
Amusingly Google maps does not recognize directions beyond driving in some parts of Vietnam (7 min to drive, 12 days to walk - WTF?!).
Then after an air conditioned, but otherwise forgettable dinner we boarded our luxury Laman Express train south to Hanoi. We booked 2 berths in a 4 person sleeper carriage for the 8 hour trip, but ended up with the car to ourselves! I slept :) 💤
We were awoken at 5am with the coffee we had ordered, and watched the sun rise as we entered the outskirts of Hanoi - it was fun to watch the streets narrow - though the drama of vendors and tourists crowding the tracks between the buildings on "train street" must happen later in the day.
In Hanoi we stowed our bags, checked out the location where the high speed rail station is being built, found a VP Bank ATM to get more cash (most of the ATMs we've encountered charge an 8% VAT to withdraw funds, this is the one exception!) and then a quick coffee before the 2ish hour train to our next stop: Ninh Binh aka "Halong Bay on Land" (stay tuned for that post...)
Once settled in our next homestay and unpacked, I realized I'd left the beautiful Moroccan scarf Ahsaan had gifted me hanging (on the right side - see image) of the doorway of our train to Hanoi! After a minor freakout (where Ahsaan reassured me that if I funded another trip to Morocco for him he's replace it 🤣), I messaged Laman Express on their customer service WhatsApp number, gave them all my info and a photo of the scarf, and they found it!!!
Then our amazing host here in Ninh Binh called and arranged for them to ship the scarf to her - she picked it up from the station the following evening - and there was NO CHARGE for shipping (as they just put it on their own train).
Vietnam continues to surprise me! But now to keep a closer eye on my things!! 😔
