Sunday, August 23, 2026
Week 2, Sapa Vietnam
(I honestly chose it because it was the only option with a bathroom rather than scheduled bathroom stops.) The experience was interesting - from the really good provided food at the bus company station, to all the passengers bagging shoes on stepping onboard, to the tiny curtained cubicles complete with flat bed and non-functioning TV. As I dozed on the 5 hour overnight trip, I reflected on the difference between my hope to actually sleep on an overnight sleeper train, and the reality of a road vehicle's unpredictable movements and angle changes - imagine swerving sideways while heading uphill with your head lower than your feet as the bus drives uphill on windy mountain roads...
I took an epic nap on our arrival at our remote homestay about 5.5km north of the town of Sapa.
We thoroughly enjoyed our self guided trek through an abundant farming community (with terraced rice paddies, covered rows of tomatoes and peppers, creeping squash vines, fields of cabbages, fruit trees, etc) to the Ta Phin Commune about 5.5km north: home of Red Dao ethnic minority,
the Ta Phin Cave (where a local boy happily took ~75 cents each to turn on the lights inside the cave - there we walked, crawled and climbed through an expansive cave system which has important historical significance for sheltering soldiers, food, and weapons while protecting Vietnam's northern border in 1979), and multiple locations for relaxing in medicinal herbal baths ($7-8), drinking tea, and eating delicious local food. Would recommend!
The highlights were Fansipan Cable Car (which covers a horizontal distance of over 6km and a vertical rise of almost 1.5km into the clouds) followed by the ~700 step climb passing numerous Buddhist statues and shrines to the summit of Fansipan Mountain, the Roof of IndoChina.
There were moments when the clouds blew away and we could see back down into lush valley below (but we didn't manage to snap those pictures).
In town we've had some delicious food (Kepfram has more on that coming...) - including some of the best vegetarian food I've ever eaten at: SU Vegetarian Restaurant (@MichelinGuide, you missed something)....
Next we're heading north to the Chinese border in Lao Cai where we'll start our train journey back south on an 8 hour overnight sleeper to Hanoi, changing there for a 2 hour ride onwards to Ninh Binh ("Halong Bay on Land"). Stay tuned!
-Ellie
Labels: Vietnam
What I'm getting used to
Outside of our first stop at small luxury boutique hotel (Hanoi Esplendor Hotel and Spa - where we'd stayed briefly when we first visited in 2023) - all the hotel/homestay bathrooms seem to be "wet rooms" - so I'm learning to limit shower spray and keep TP outside of the bathroom!
Oh, and I didn't even mention the "bum gun" - my personal favorite style of bidet - present in every public/private bathroom!
Shoes off inside - I love this, and always prefer it at home, but was not used to the provided slippers to enter hotel rooms, medical offices, some restaurants (SU Vegetarian with its pebble floor!), or the shoe bag on the long-distance sleeper bus!
Communication - we've traveled quite a lot, but primarily in places where we could speak Spanish or where English was common - less so here, but with Google Translate/Google Lens voice<->speech it is SO much easier to communicate! (Interestingly, it is just that ease that makes it harder for me to remember to simply/remove nuance from everything I say to these non-native speakers!)
Technology - that brings me to travel with computer and smartphone - so different than 20 years ago with guidebook in hand! I do feel a lot more connected to my peeps at home, and it's much easier to research/book places to stay/things to do - but it also means less time talking to and meeting locals & fellow travelers - we shall see if we can change this!
(Need I say more?!)
-Ellie
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
Week 1: Hanoi, Vietnam
Ellie lost a dental filling on the plane. [midway through our 27 hour 3 leg journey in a sleepless haze…] She thought she bit down on a walnut shell in an otherwise unremarkable brownie. Thankfully we found a dental spa near the hotel.
The rest of the week went okay. She fixed her tooth, we did a little sightseeing: Hoa Lo Prison (thanks for the suggestion Ahsaan!), walked around the Old Quarter, & ate some foods. Most meals were remarkable one way or another.
Ellie & Kepfram in Hanoi
Ellie reconnected with her egg coffee, I drank Vietnamese coffee, tried coconut coffee (delicious), iced jasmine green tea (new fav), & longan iced tea (sweet, but yummy). Most of the beverages were strong brews balanced with something sweet or creamy which I really liked.
We ate pho (obvs), Cha ca La Vong: grilled turmeric fish with herbs & greens; a weak veggie bahn mi that prompted me to learn about Vietnamese fermented tofu so I could make a sandwich I'd like more. I'm not sure if I'm happy or mad about having to develop a tofu recipe...
Labels: Vietnam
Thursday, August 13, 2026
A new adventure begins!
After 20 years sleeping, this blog is ready to awaken! We have landed in Hanoi, Vietnam!!
Ellie & Kepfram begin their year in SE Asia - after 20 years back living in NYC & raising a phenomenal kid (who's now beginning his solo adventures), it is time to explore, immerse, and reconnect!
We hope you will follow along as we slow travel! Our proposed itinerary: Aug-Oct 2026 Vietnam, Nov 2026 Cambodia, Dec 2026 Laos, Jan-Feb 2027 Thailand, Mar-May 2027 Malaysia, June 2027 Indonesia, July 2027 ???
We look forward to sharing the new things we do, see, taste, and learn - stay tuned!
Labels: Status Update, Vietnam
