Kepfram & Ellie's Travel Journal

Monday, July 17, 2006


It's hard to believe that this aventura is over, and that we've been back home already for almost 2 weeks....

I feel blessed to have met so many great people along our journey: my fellow teachers (& co-Spanish students) from Universidad Latina (Katie & Mike, Rachael, Shiona, Denise, etc), friends we explored Costa Rica with (Omar & Lea, Elizabeth & Isaac, Kassi), my students (especially Rocío and Ernesto who started out as students but ended up as real friends - and there are so many more - too many to list), my Costa Rican/Argentine Spanish teacher (Monica - one of the best teachers I've ever had) & her husband (Monte - gifted musician & friend), our incredible hosts in Nicaragua (Marcela & Boris), our traveling companions in Bolivia & beyond (Yvan & Cécile, Rafael, Franck & Charlotte), our new friends in Argentina (Araceli, Claudia & her family), plus all those other people who were kind to us along the way. (I'm sorry I don't have pictures of everyone - how could that have happened?!! Come visit us in NY, we need to document our friendship!!)

We saw so many incredible places, tasted many unique foods, got sick several times as a result, learned tons Spanish, laughed at our fortunes and misfortunes, read some great books (highlights for me being: Mountains Beyond Mountains, and Nine Hills to Nambonkaha), and overall expanded our horizons.

To see where we've been look in our archives:
July 2005 - getting to know Costa Rica
August 2005 - settling into Costa Rican life and our Villa Lakshmi apartment, looking for work, our trip to Cahuita
September 2005 - exploring San José, Montezuma, Cartago, Volcan Irazú, plus an intro Nicaragua
October 2005 - recap of our trip to Nicaragua, info on our new apartment
November 2005 - a quick update from Costa Rica
December 2005 - more from Costa Rica including our trip to Rincon de la Vieja, plus the start our holiday in Guatemala
January 2006 - more from Guatemala
February 2006 - more updates from Costa Rica including apartment photos
March 2006 - we say goodbye to Costa Rica then visit Panamá, explore Ecuador, and enter Perú
April 2006 - our trips through Perú & Bolivia (will Kepfram ever finish his post about el Salar de Uyuní??)
May 2006 - our visit to Chile and our first weeks in Argentina (including Bariloche, Mendoza, our intro to Buenos Aires)
June 2006 - our Buenos Aires apartment and our visits to Igauzú Falls (post pending - are you listening Kepfram??) & to Uruguay
July 2006 - our last days in Buenos Aires and coming home
Kepfram & Ellie, 6:45 PM | link | 1 comments |

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Things I´ve learned in Argentina:
Ellie
Kepfram & Ellie, 2:46 AM | link | 1 comments |

Monday, July 03, 2006

Our favorites in Buenos Aires:

The weekend brunch at Janio Restaurant - with a huge buffet of fruit, yogurt, cereals, fresh juices, jams, hams, cheeses, eggs, cookies, and pastries... mmmmmMmmm
The selection included the BEST creamy chocolate mousse brownie thingy either of us have ever tasted
Conveniently located about 10 blocks from our apartment



La Flor on a pretty day - it's a giant solar powered cyber flower.... cool!
If you go at dawn or dusk you can see the flower in motion - but we were equally impressed with the mid-day view





Ricoleta Cemetery (Map in Spanish & Info in English)
With tons of interesting architecture - it's a city within the city of B.A.
It's where many of Argentina's rich, famous, and infamous are laid to rest - not buried, mind you - the coffins are clearly visible in many of the tombs




Shopping at the Feria de Mataderos where you can buy TONS of cool artisanal goods (foods, crafts, clothes, etc) for great prices from cool people & watch local gauchos participate in traditional competitions




Teatro Colón - 2nd in the world in sound quality (after Milan's opera house)
We never got to see a show, but the tour was really impressive - although we were only permitted to take photos in the entry hall, the theater itself was fabulous and we even got to listen to the Symphony practicing on stage from the presidential box!



Botanical Gardens a great free spot to relax in the city & only 4 blocks from our apartment!
The garden is home to many of Buenos Aires's feral cats



Japanese Garden a lovely spot to sit and relax or to participate in any of the many programs offered - from bonsai to tea ceremonies - not that we went to any of their programs, but we did go to visit the garden and it was quite nice



MALBA (El Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) - really good new museum with mostly modern pieces and an excellent permanent collection (artists include Freda Kahlo, Diego Revera, Fernando Botero, and many others including Cuban/French artist Wifredo Lam who painted the work to the left)
Kepfram didn't go with me to visit the museum, but he really missed out!
The museum is new since my last visit to B.A., I was really impressed, and I'll most definitely return



El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes - great mostly free museum including plenty of European (mostly French and Spanish) art from the 19th and 20th centuries
Kepfram was really digging the Impressionist exhibits, and I really went for the more modern stuff, but we were also both taken by the use of light in the work of 19th century Realist William-Adolphe Bouguereau



El Once in Barrio Balvanera is the Buenos Aires garment district - we really enjoyed the super cheap shopping and the totally un-sophisticated flavor of this Jewish neighborhood
Amongst the multiple shoe stores, and casual to trendy clothing stores, you can find a men's suit and (even get it custom fitted) for U$S 30-50 (although it was difficult to fit Kepfram's body type in these suits cut originally for the stores' main clinentel of Orthodox Ashkenazi Jews....)





The commercial theater district along Corrientes
I went with Monica's (my Spanish teacher from Costa Rica) Mom, Araceli (what a great, energetic person, if you ever need tourism advice for Argentina contact her at exploreargentina.com, she can surely help you out) to see the Argentine release of Visiting Mr. Green with the incredible talented Pepe Soriano who WAS Sr. Green for 2 hours...
What an amazing experience to see a beautifully acted play (tickets purchased night of show, 30 minutes before curtain for a nearly full house, but we got FRONT ROW seats!!) in Spanish and understand all but a few words!
Kepfram didn't join us (afraid his Spanish wasn't up to par), again, he really missed out...



Riding the Subte - although we never got used to the trains going the WRONG way (at least compared to normal - which IS the New York Subway system) we loved the art
Kepfram & Ellie, 2:46 PM | link | 0 comments |